[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"$fjHYG108wK-LNYBlWqoQJtLObcccFgL-CD-tNkYmY0EU":3,"story-smugmug-Stories\u002FPerchtenlaufen":194},{"title":4,"slug":5,"subtitle":6,"heroSmugmugAlbumPath":7,"smugmugAlbumPath":7,"heroSmugmugImageKey":8,"heroAlt":9,"chapters":10,"closingLine":193,"heroImage":87},"The Sheer Madness of Perchtenlaufen","perchtenlaufen","Chasing the spirits of winter through the streets of Tyrol","Stories\u002FPerchtenlaufen","JVPJBmw","Perchten horns in the picturesque alpine village of Scheffau, Austria",[11,50,88,148],{"id":12,"day":13,"heading":14,"text":15,"images":16},"lauf-1","1. Lauf","Söllleuken Pass, Söll","Did we know what we were getting into? Absolutely not. We'd travelled there based on a throwaway line from \"Ted Lasso\" and a few stories about Austrians dressing up as Krampus to scare children at Christmas.",[17,25,31,37,43],{"smugmugImageKey":18,"alt":19,"caption":20,"phase":21,"technical":22,"src":24},"pL8xfpd","Söllleuken Pass performing in Söll, Austria","The drums start beating. Dum dum dum, dum dum dum, dum.","It begins",{"location":23},"Söll, Tyrol, Austria","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-pL8xfpd\u002F0\u002FKDnM73Qkr2GqfL8ZqJzS3bc9ZNfKTdXmSR7Fx8Rzc\u002FX2\u002Fi-pL8xfpd-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":26,"alt":19,"caption":27,"phase":28,"technical":29,"src":30},"sP47C5g","I can feel the drums in my bones.","Dum dum dumdumdumdum dum dum dum",{"location":23},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-sP47C5g\u002F0\u002FNG8RPxDjH3CmSmS4vB4Ltptnsr92485rK8W8FhTFR\u002FX2\u002Fi-sP47C5g-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":32,"alt":19,"caption":33,"phase":34,"technical":35,"src":36},"7tgTJj8","The fires get closer and warm my face--the only part of my body exposed to the cold night.","Warmth on a cold night",{"location":23},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-7tgTJj8\u002F0\u002FKdzWvB99K6K3ZffzW3LDvLdbr2Lf5bCdtJQdX44fh\u002FX2\u002Fi-7tgTJj8-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":38,"alt":19,"caption":39,"phase":40,"technical":41,"src":42},"HrVXLWj","Brrpp brrpp brrpp, brrpp brrpp brrpp, brrpp.","And then the horns",{"location":23},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-HrVXLWj\u002F0\u002FNL7ss8VG5mVD5CgRBfGzLR4MZ66rVkfP6XPWZfFDD\u002FX2\u002Fi-HrVXLWj-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":44,"alt":19,"caption":45,"phase":46,"maxWidth":47,"technical":48,"src":49},"SDHks3F","What a spectacle. Seriously, how is it that we're almost the only non-locals here?","A grand finale","60%",{"location":23},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-SDHks3F\u002F0\u002FLqfkWkX7wntHh368mPchDsThhjQXzRTS4KzMLVgHx\u002FX2\u002Fi-SDHks3F-X2.jpg",{"id":51,"day":52,"heading":53,"text":54,"images":55},"lauf-2","2. Lauf","Söllleuken Pass, Scheffau","A few hours later, the sound of horns still echoing in our ears, we found ourselves watching the same \"pass\", or perchten group, performing in the picturesque alpine village of Scheffau. The setting was completely different, but the energy was just as intense. Possibly even moreso, given the wooden mountain chalets surrounding us, with all firefighters in the area on high alert for any stray sparks.",[56,64,70,77,83],{"smugmugImageKey":57,"alt":58,"caption":59,"phase":60,"technical":61,"src":63},"XFbqWX5","Söllleuken Pass performing in Scheffau, Austria","A few hours isn't long to recover from dancing in the sauna of a 30kg homemade cornhusk suit.","A quick turnaround",{"location":62},"Scheffau, Tyrol, Austria","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-XFbqWX5\u002F0\u002FLjHxDbPRBgpptt6jcwvgd5h7QtfgvJnJQ2MpvSdg6\u002FX2\u002Fi-XFbqWX5-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":65,"alt":58,"caption":66,"phase":67,"technical":68,"src":69},"vPKjkPG","I imagine it's needed to counter the neck pain from constantly waving around a giant pair of horns.","Enough time for Advil to kick in",{"location":62},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002FPeople\u002Fi-vPKjkPG\u002F0\u002FLfmcCMbxSWmdNRHWCTnhwfqG7gdmFpfNHg6snzTfZ\u002FL\u002FThe%20Perchten%20Arrive%20in%20Scheffau-L.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":71,"alt":58,"caption":72,"phase":73,"maxWidth":74,"technical":75,"src":76},"RNB6nCm","So the firefighters got to sit back and enjoy the show.","No buildings were harmed in the making of this photo","50%",{"location":62},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-RNB6nCm\u002F0\u002FK533xpKgZ6Rqm8WN5B4StqF5xBDQLsHgZmHsNJjKM\u002FX2\u002Fi-RNB6nCm-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":78,"alt":58,"caption":79,"phase":80,"maxWidth":74,"technical":81,"src":82},"bnbpg5h","It gets to the point where it feels like even my heart is beating to the same rhythm.","The drumbeats roll on",{"location":62},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-bnbpg5h\u002F0\u002FMWBJWKRCvrCs5bWSB3MHBzrc9D9fhhfj3QVhH3jsM\u002FX2\u002Fi-bnbpg5h-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":8,"alt":58,"caption":84,"phase":85,"technical":86,"src":87},"The silence of snowfall is nowhere to be found in amongst the brrpp brrpp brrpp of horns.","The snow falls",{"location":62},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-JVPJBmw\u002F0\u002FK3mRDs3khHLpRrWjh9ZMJZm8rSgPWZjjL752RpZ8S\u002FX2\u002Fi-JVPJBmw-X2.jpg",{"id":89,"day":90,"heading":91,"text":92,"images":93},"lauf-3","3. Lauf","Perchtentreffen, Itter","We'd seen one group perform, and it left us wondering how this festival hadn't captured the world's imagination in the way other European festivals, like the Running of the Bulls, had. So, we had high hopes for an event featuring 8 different \"passes.\" It delivered.",[94,102,109,116,124,130,136,142],{"smugmugImageKey":95,"alt":96,"caption":97,"phase":98,"technical":99,"src":101},"tZKNqbc","A pile of masks at Perchtentreffen in Itter, Austria","The infinitely creepy and creative masks of the perchten, waiting for their turn to be worn.","A pile of...hopefully not heads",{"location":100},"Itter, Tyrol, Austria","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-tZKNqbc\u002F0\u002FLZBmQmNFzXgVpWD97Hfgbp4hH3dgr6BttpzxR3P37\u002FX2\u002Fi-tZKNqbc-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":103,"alt":104,"caption":105,"phase":106,"technical":107,"src":108},"wPXW4t6","Groahoiz Pass performs at Perchtentreffen in Itter","Good thing everyone around him is also wearing a mask.","You could poke an eye out with those",{"location":100},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-wPXW4t6\u002F0\u002FKLtWKTgM5dwpWWGhMCNZHFnqLSK64tRjxJbrQ9GvR\u002FX2\u002Fi-wPXW4t6-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":110,"alt":111,"caption":112,"phase":113,"technical":114,"src":115},"P8JJzLT","Perchtentreffen in Itter","Right outside the church is the appropriate place to fight off the spirits of winter, right?","...in a churchyard",{"location":100},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-P8JJzLT\u002F0\u002FNQPFs9PTkMXpQZn8P2JBW6tWVxZQwP2ws98MrNCrQ\u002FX2\u002Fi-P8JJzLT-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":117,"alt":118,"caption":119,"phase":120,"maxWidth":121,"technical":122,"src":123},"f8qC5nt","Salven Pass performs at Perchtentreffen in Itter","Surely if we make it look golden and summery enough, the spirits of winter will be tricked into hiding away for the season.","Creating our own golden hour","45%",{"location":100},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-f8qC5nt\u002F0\u002FK68G7Vqc94N3P85Nh3625D2MZ33575Mgg7NPRTQxJ\u002FX2\u002Fi-f8qC5nt-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":125,"alt":118,"caption":126,"phase":127,"maxWidth":74,"technical":128,"src":129},"bZzg42t","As if the costumes weren't heavy enough, the drums--originally fashioned from truck petrol tanks--have to be strapped on with chains.","So heavy you need chains to hold it up",{"location":100},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-bZzg42t\u002F0\u002FMHSrx9bvm2kX4pPMZJj5qFkP5GndHvt6ZMpdRjP2X\u002FX2\u002Fi-bZzg42t-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":131,"alt":118,"caption":132,"phase":133,"maxWidth":121,"technical":134,"src":135},"5bj8Bw6","Suddenly, the drums and horns stop, only to be replaced by the jingling of many giant bells attached to dancing perchten.","And the bells",{"location":100},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002FPeople\u002Fi-5bj8Bw6\u002F0\u002FLpb3XKnGQC97jsnZr3nLkbdf2QhVXQMkm89qKd4MW\u002FL\u002FChasing%20Away%20Winter%20With%20Fire%20and%20Tridents-L.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":137,"alt":118,"caption":138,"phase":139,"maxWidth":121,"technical":140,"src":141},"Pkwpfnd","Fireworks, breathing fire, magnesium flashes, coloured smoke, and burning horns. They had it all.","Many different types of fire",{"location":100},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-Pkwpfnd\u002F0\u002FMSC4TgbXKg5CWRrczvJRc7DMMVD5jJ9gggxmx9VTW\u002FX2\u002Fi-Pkwpfnd-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":143,"alt":118,"caption":144,"phase":145,"maxWidth":74,"technical":146,"src":147},"cjdG5L3","And it's time for another pass to start their run.","The smoke settles",{"location":100},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-cjdG5L3\u002F0\u002FLXCqnrtdw2wWM2C7xG55qcwhxFJw4Rs7LhJt5zbtP\u002FX2\u002Fi-cjdG5L3-X2.jpg",{"id":149,"day":150,"heading":151,"text":152,"images":153},"lauf-4","4. Lauf","Perchtenlaufen, Rattenberg","The finale, and the perchten's final run of the year, was in the medieval town of Rattenberg. The narrow cobblestone streets were surrounded by stone buildings, whose walls became the canvas for giantdancing horned shadows. The drums and horns echoed off the walls, creating a cacophony of sound that was almost overwhelming.",[154,162,168,175,181,187],{"smugmugImageKey":155,"alt":156,"caption":157,"phase":158,"technical":159,"src":161},"7DnFRjg","Seida Pass performs at Perchtenlaufen in Rattenberg","The leader of the pass breathes fire on anything in his path. Mostly just his own broom.","Burn it all",{"location":160},"Rattenberg, Tyrol, Austria","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-7DnFRjg\u002F0\u002FKHszcRbVSCsDrtnwwNxkHDWR7HpmRFRhpc3xdsJvv\u002FX2\u002Fi-7DnFRjg-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":163,"alt":156,"caption":164,"phase":165,"maxWidth":121,"technical":166,"src":167},"8ZDFSpv","Run away screaming? Not Austrian kids. They love the spectacle, and some even take part.","The children love it",{"location":160},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002FPeople\u002Fi-8ZDFSpv\u002F0\u002FLWvdQxv3VwQZfv5F9PbT83m8Rp8Krjk2kbM43Zd2P\u002FL\u002FLook%20Mom%2C%20He%27s%20Breathing%20Fire%21-L.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":169,"alt":170,"caption":171,"phase":172,"maxWidth":121,"technical":173,"src":174},"XFZ7hCK","Perchtenlaufen in Rattenberg","As you do.","Horns and Christmas trees",{"location":160},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-XFZ7hCK\u002F0\u002FNVNBMDfBDFKrv3gG67pKj5WwXqNbTWBqS2kwGXG75\u002FX2\u002Fi-XFZ7hCK-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":176,"alt":170,"caption":177,"phase":178,"technical":179,"src":180},"GLN9kR8","I couldn't. The thundering of DUM DUM DUM, DUM DUM DUM, DUM filled my brain.","Can't you just hear the evil laughter?",{"location":160},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-GLN9kR8\u002F0\u002FM6nchwsfVgZRrrLptDHscx3bFv8PpK2SS79wVwjNP\u002FX2\u002Fi-GLN9kR8-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":182,"alt":170,"caption":183,"phase":184,"technical":185,"src":186},"cXVp4vM","It's hard to tell if there's a Christmas market or a riot happening here.","A classic Christmas scene",{"location":160},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-cXVp4vM\u002F0\u002FLChSkWQDT4knDs6LCD7DPHRFSbPJL2BFrQ9VcbjDV\u002FX2\u002Fi-cXVp4vM-X2.jpg",{"smugmugImageKey":188,"alt":170,"caption":189,"phase":190,"technical":191,"src":192},"8dHKLM9","It almost looks like a normal night in Rattenberg, until you see all the silhouettes of horns.","A classic medieval town scene",{"location":160},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002FLandscapes\u002FEuropean-Cityscapes\u002Fi-8dHKLM9\u002F0\u002FMBCRkfTMKtKHmgczB6XCs4j8BBzjnpxQFbrbPfWwN\u002FL\u002FThe%20Night%20of%20the%20Perchten-L.jpg","When the drumbeats faded and the horns went quiet, I marvelled at what I'd witnessed over the last three nights. While we may not have effectively chased away winter (it snowed heavily the next evening), it certainly made winter feel just a little less heavy.",[195,225,239,252,262,273,284,297,306,319,328,342,354,368,378,391,403,417,429,441,457,470,483,495],{"title":196,"slug":197,"caption":198,"imageUrls":199,"exif":203,"keywords":210,"location":198,"smugmugImageKey":18,"width":222,"height":223,"aspectRatio":224},"Soll 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Salven Pass was the second of many perchten \"passes\" to perform on the night, and I will never forget the echoing of the drums or the tone of their howling horns as they chased away the evil spirits of winter. It was absolutely one of the most fascinating and entertaining festivals I have ever 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Saida Pass' performance at Perchtenlauf in Rattenberg.\n\nThroughout the first week of December, groups (or \"passes\") perform in Perchten events across Austria's Tyrol region. \n\nWe went to many of these shows over the course of three days, but the ones in Rattenberg -- a charming city on the banks of the river Inn -- were our absolute favourites. I won't be forgetting the din of all the drums echoing off the walls of the city anytime soon!",{"thumbnail":446,"medium":447,"large":167,"full":448},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002FPeople\u002Fi-8ZDFSpv\u002F0\u002FLcVKKRbJL7Zj9RWjRWGfB6Nd8WZMDNhT3n2VCtDtD\u002FTh\u002FLook%20Mom%2C%20He%27s%20Breathing%20Fire%21-Th.jpg","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002FPeople\u002Fi-8ZDFSpv\u002F0\u002FLMxXBr4ngsZL92VLhRjsZg9R9KHQ8sSgcJmfkFrJZ\u002FM\u002FLook%20Mom%2C%20He%27s%20Breathing%20Fire%21-M.jpg","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002FPeople\u002Fi-8ZDFSpv\u002F0\u002FDR8MTxbTgdnMnQwC5StQCMZvQF34Pk9gVCSPfpgRS-1776737444-O\u002Fi-8ZDFSpv.jpg",{"camera":204,"lens":205,"focalLength":411,"aperture":207,"shutterSpeed":198,"iso":208,"captureDate":437},[451,439,211,212,452,213,453,214,215,216,217,218,5,440,454,220,221],"activities","crowd","fire breathing","saida pass",4408,0.8008720930232558,{"title":458,"slug":459,"caption":198,"imageUrls":460,"exif":464,"keywords":466,"location":198,"smugmugImageKey":169,"width":467,"height":468,"aspectRatio":469},"Rattenberg 03.jpg","rattenberg-03-jpg",{"thumbnail":461,"medium":462,"large":174,"full":463},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-XFZ7hCK\u002F0\u002FMWVT893hjW93DkzqRksbncTs7JT589Gb2NgXPxXpP\u002FTh\u002Fi-XFZ7hCK-Th.jpg","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-XFZ7hCK\u002F0\u002FNJ6NSTm8G2Nd5L6RNdM57X2sT8FnTwVTmXnXSrqbb\u002FM\u002Fi-XFZ7hCK-M.jpg","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-XFZ7hCK\u002F0\u002FrH9WhzkM6KfSH475pZj3MXzgcB2wZRxSLHwzVSZ7-1776737444-O\u002Fi-XFZ7hCK.jpg",{"camera":204,"lens":205,"focalLength":465,"aperture":207,"shutterSpeed":198,"iso":208,"captureDate":437},"27.0 mm",[439,211,212,213,214,215,216,217,218,5,440,220,221],4268,5166,0.8261711188540457,{"title":471,"slug":472,"caption":198,"imageUrls":473,"exif":477,"keywords":479,"location":198,"smugmugImageKey":176,"width":480,"height":481,"aspectRatio":482},"Rattenberg 04.jpg","rattenberg-04-jpg",{"thumbnail":474,"medium":475,"large":180,"full":476},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-GLN9kR8\u002F0\u002FLbsWXf7hz4SrTKPPGPQpwPssKmhWTWvzNPw3N2RWV\u002FTh\u002Fi-GLN9kR8-Th.jpg","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-GLN9kR8\u002F0\u002FM7T974VgK7QMZR4hBWgxXm5qBXS5bSNGbR6JPsFJp\u002FM\u002Fi-GLN9kR8-M.jpg","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-GLN9kR8\u002F0\u002FrLCVmzWQn3rQ2HwBTMJzqmZ7v3zdW9fmgttVRk7t-1776737444-O\u002Fi-GLN9kR8.jpg",{"camera":204,"lens":205,"focalLength":478,"aperture":207,"shutterSpeed":198,"iso":208,"captureDate":437},"50.0 mm",[439,211,212,213,214,215,216,217,218,5,440,220,221],7062,5089,1.3876989585380233,{"title":484,"slug":485,"caption":198,"imageUrls":486,"exif":490,"keywords":492,"location":198,"smugmugImageKey":182,"width":249,"height":493,"aspectRatio":494},"Rattenberg 05.jpg","rattenberg-05-jpg",{"thumbnail":487,"medium":488,"large":186,"full":489},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-cXVp4vM\u002F0\u002FLRF6pvNMxp23jvbvFNnDP3qNFvXzkwRB8SLVbxKNF\u002FTh\u002Fi-cXVp4vM-Th.jpg","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-cXVp4vM\u002F0\u002FLFQv3vZbNFFrQKkT784n6dtZRVDrzwB4vzCPdLSGr\u002FM\u002Fi-cXVp4vM-M.jpg","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002Fphotos\u002Fi-cXVp4vM\u002F0\u002FFCSnKtrxBSVVXSzP7WKpBtWKPjmFj8kXcJ8GqwjGM-1776737444-O\u002Fi-cXVp4vM.jpg",{"camera":204,"lens":205,"focalLength":491,"aperture":207,"shutterSpeed":198,"iso":208,"captureDate":437},"35.0 mm",[439,211,212,213,214,215,216,217,218,5,440,220,221],4695,1.7584664536741215,{"title":496,"slug":497,"caption":498,"imageUrls":499,"exif":503,"keywords":505,"location":198,"smugmugImageKey":188,"width":507,"height":508,"aspectRatio":509},"The Night of the Perchten","the-night-of-the-perchten","It may seem like a normal night in the alpine town of Rattenberg, but if you look a little closer, you may see the spirits of winter being chased through the streets...",{"thumbnail":500,"medium":501,"large":192,"full":502},"https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002FLandscapes\u002FEuropean-Cityscapes\u002Fi-8dHKLM9\u002F0\u002FLqVxfVXBmP8RHMPTQt6k2N3rG5WMFq9Md5Cm6Kgc2\u002FTh\u002FThe%20Night%20of%20the%20Perchten-Th.jpg","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002FLandscapes\u002FEuropean-Cityscapes\u002Fi-8dHKLM9\u002F0\u002FMTsLQCfq5qVcG9W9LR37KwpqWzsdS6kqTMPJQm6Hr\u002FM\u002FThe%20Night%20of%20the%20Perchten-M.jpg","https:\u002F\u002Fphotos.smugmug.com\u002FLandscapes\u002FEuropean-Cityscapes\u002Fi-8dHKLM9\u002F0\u002FCJsLTZKd6jBmNH3HCk6NWM6C47qPZdXq2xRBXJVmg-1776737444-O\u002Fi-8dHKLM9.jpg",{"camera":204,"lens":205,"focalLength":504,"aperture":207,"shutterSpeed":198,"iso":208,"captureDate":437},"48.0 mm",[439,211,212,213,506,214,215,216,217,218,5,440,220,221,390],"festival",8004,4024,1.989065606361829]